Cruise Time! But First, Windmills!

I woke up predictably early on Sunday with that excited “we’re going on a cruise today” feeling keeping me from sleep. We finished getting our bags ready for the ship and then went down for one last breakfast at the world’s most amazing buffet.

I had arranged transportation with Pedro Pinduko who I read about on Facebook. We were going to make a leisurely drive to Rotterdam with a stop in Kinderdijk to see the windmills.

I’m so glad I found Pedro and cancelled our other transportation! Our trip to Rotterdam was very enjoyable! Pedro was personable and knowledgeable about the things we were seeing. He took us “off the beaten path” through some delightful towns instead of taking the highway all the way to Kinderdijk.

Kinderdijk was crowded but not unmanageable. We decided not to get admission tickets, and instead we just walked the paths and saw the windmills from the outside. It was a beautiful day, and we actually got hot and had to shed layers!

It was such a pleasant trip to Rotterdam! We plan to use Pedro as a guide the next time we cruise from Rotterdam!

Before we knew it we were in Rotterdam dropping luggage. The port handles checked bags a little differently than others I’ve sailed from. Instead of handing bags over to a porter you line up and they are sent up a conveyor belt directly onto the ship! It was super easy, as was check-in. Everything is done with facial recognition now, so aside from checking passports and taking the ID pictures there really isn’t anything to do. I noticed there is no longer a health questionnaire to complete during boarding. About 10 minutes after we dropped our bags we were walking onto the ship! At last we’re cruising again!

One thing I really appreciate about Holland America is the cabins are ready when you board. We went straight to our room, a Neptune Suite on Deck 7 very close to the lounge. Almost immediately we met our cabin stewards, Mash and Nyomen. They were fantastic — attentive and eager without being intrusive or annoying. As a bonus, they actually brought our luggage with them!

We went down to the Neptune Lounge and met our phenomenal concierge Kristine (more about her later), and decided to go to the Lido for lunch.

Lunch was OK. Nothing special, but we try to avoid the buffet as much as possible and it’s always crowded on the first day. After lunch we made a quick trip to check in at our muster station, we went to the gym to check out the group fitness schedule, and then went back to our cabin to get everything unpacked and put away for two weeks! Part of unpacking was also sending out our first batch of laundry. It’s a great perk of being in a suite, and Holland America does a fantastic job with guest laundry.

We sailed on time at 4:00. It was a beautiful afternoon and we had clear views of Rotterdam and the surrounding area as we left.

The old Holland America Headquarters building is now the New York Hotel.

The fifth SS Rotterdam has been repurposed as a hotel.

Not too long after leaving Rotterdam we headed out to the North Sea on our way to Alesund, Norway.

We enjoyed dinner in Club Orange the first night of the cruise. We had followed our next door neighbors down to Club Orange and ended up sitting with them at dinner, as well as some other meals during the cruise.

That was it for our first day. I stopped in the casino to make a small deposit, and we were happy to be rocked to sleep on a ship headed for new to us territory!

Art and Food…Two Different Ways to Explore Dutch Culture

Saturday was a beautiful day! We spent it walking miles through Amsterdam with our fantastic guide, Marten Koerse. Marten has an incredible knowledge of art and history, and we’re glad we chose him to guide us through the day.

Marten met us in the lobby of our hotel at 9:00, and we set off on a leisurely stroll to the Rijksmuseum.

I love the canals early in the day!

Marten is a gifted storyteller, and I repeatedly saw us gathering a crowd inside the exhibit areas! I probably should have passed the hat to let those people pay their share of our tour!😂

The Night Watch is currently being restored. It sits behind giant sheets of thick glass which provide soundproofing so the experts working on the painting aren’t startled by noise from the museum guests.

As we were leaving the museum, Marten pointed out a long metal plate in the ceiling of the porte cochere. It is an emergency escape to lower the priceless masterpiece to safety in case of fire.

After we left the museum we made our way over to the Albert Cuyp Market for samplings of some of Marten’s Dutch favorites!

We started at the fish market, although both Jim and I politely declined the Pickled Herring!

Cod

Shrimp

Somebody else’s herring!

Stroopwafels

Pancakes

Apple Pie

Bitterballen

By this time we were stuffed and tired, so we decided to head back to our hotel to freshen up before dinner. We were going to take the tram, but unfortunately there was a service interruption due to a large demonstration in Dam Square. Thankfully Marten was able to navigate a different way back using the Metro, and we got back to the hotel about 4:00.

Our day with Marten was exceptional, and we would love to tour with him again when/if we return to Amsterdam.

Dinner Saturday was something new to us…we arranged dinner in a private home using the “Eat With” website (https://www.eatwith.com). What a fantastic experience! We chose an Italian meal in Luca’s canal home, and are so glad we did that instead of going to a restaurant. Luca was a gracious host and an excellent cook. We enjoyed the meal, watching the chef in action, and Luca’s personal story of growing up in southern Italy and how he came to settle in Amsterdam. I highly recommend Eat With to anyone who likes to explore a different culture and get a taste of what life is like for the locals!

We didn’t have much energy left by the time we finished dinner. We knew we still needed to get back to the hotel and get packed up to leave in the morning. We were finally cruising the next day, and we couldn’t wait for 2 weeks on a ship exploring new places!

Thought Provoking and Gut-Wrenching…The Other Part of Friday in Amsterdam

How often do we hear the words “Never Forget!” after a tragedy, either a man-made terror act or a natural disaster? Sadly, it seems like it’s frequently these days. Inevitably the hurt and shock of an event fade with time, yet I think it’s important to always remember, both to honor those who died as well as learn from the lessons of the past.

The bulk of our day Friday was spent learning about and remembering the Amsterdam Holocaust victims as well as those who tried to save as many as they could through their resistance activities. Amsterdam has a historic Jewish quarter that houses several locations of significance. We visited two of them on Friday — The Resistance Museum and the National Holocaust Museum.

Before the start of WWII Amsterdam had a thriving Jewish population of about 75,000-80,000. Drawn by Amsterdam’s history of religious tolerance, the Jewish population flourished economically and socially. There was never a Jewish ghetto in Amsterdam as in so many other European cities. That all changed virtually overnight with the German occupation in 1940.

I really can’t describe the range of emotions I felt as we toured the museums and other important sites. It’s one thing to read accounts or visit a museum here in the states, but it’s another to walk the halls of the school that was used to smuggle children to safety or the theater that was used as a deportation center.

Both museums were excellent, and extremely thought provoking in different ways. The Holocaust Museum left me wondering how and why such evil could exist, and the Resistance Museum made me question what I would have done. I always thought the answer to what I would have done was simple, but when you read the first hand accounts and learn of the terror of living through the Nazi occupation the answer isn’t that simple. I found the visits left me with a lot of questions with no straightforward answers.

Would I have been willing to risk my life, my home, my loved ones? Jim’s grandmother was a German Jew by heritage, who later married a Catholic and converted. Thankfully she had been born in the US, but if she had been in Germany would she have survived? Would Jim have been murdered because of a Jewish grandparent?


I thought it was a profound and sad sign of our times that entry into the Holocaust Museum was heavily guarded. There was an outdoor bag check, followed by entry into an outer chamber, and finally entry into the building. The safety precautions were brought home on Saturday when several tram stops near our hotel were shut down because of a Palestinian protest in Dam Square. We later learned that is an almost daily occurrence.

I also learned that the few Amsterdam Jews who survived the Holocaust weren’t welcome back with open arms after the war. The ill and traumatized victims returned to a hostile environment to find their homes occupied and their businesses gone. At one point the government even tried to get returning victims to pay back taxes for the time they had been imprisoned!

It is estimated that only 5,000-6,000 Jews returned to Amsterdam from the concentration camps or hiding places. The rest were murdered by the Nazi regime. Never forget.

Early to Bed and Early to Rise

We knew we would be up unreasonably early on Friday, so we planned to get out and take advantage of the sleeping city on an early morning canal cruise.

Our day started with the hotel’s excellent breakfast buffet. What a spread! I’ve never seen anything like it.

The Anantara Grand Krasnapolsky Breakfast Buffet

The Anantara Grand Krasnapolsky Breakfast Buffet

After a quick breakfast we were off to our early morning canal cruise on Captain Dave’s Royal Jonckvrouw. We chose the cruise specifically because it departed at 8:00 and was on a small boat/in a small group. It was perfect for us…relaxing and quiet. We enjoyed sitting outside and being one of a very few boats on the canals.

Houseboats in Amsterdam aren’t just for living. Many people use them for gardens and precious outdoor space!

I’m going to deviate a bit from my normal chronological blog posts today, and skip to lunch and dinner before I fill in the hours in between.

We had lunch at a delightful little cafe in the Jewish Cultural District. It was an adventure because we really weren’t sure what we were getting! I thought my flatbread was close to what I thought I would be served, but Jim’s Louman Meatball with Amsterdam Pickles (they’re actually onions) was a surprise!

De Deli — This picture is from their website.

De Deli — Plantage Kerklaan 41 1018CV Amsterdam

Truffle Serrano Flammkucheria

Louman Meatball X De Deli

Dinner on Friday was a delight! We ate at Restaurant D’Vjiff Vlieghen, or The Five Flies. Thankfully we didn’t see any flies during our meal! The restaurant is the oldest in Amsterdam, and is located in a series of canal houses that date back to the early 1600s. (The street has been filled in, but it was once a canal.)

Walking through the door to the restaurant is taking a step back in time to an era of low ceilings and exposed beams. The building was fascinating and we thought the food and service was excellent.

Restaurant D’Vjiff Vlieghen — Spuistraat 294-302
1012 VX Amsterdam

Mustard Soup

Catch of the Day

Tournedos

Cremeux of Dark Chocolate

After many miles, smiles, thoughts, and delicacies we were happy to go back to our hotel and fall into bed!

We Had Big Plans to Stay Awake!

The ride into Central Amsterdam from Schiphol was relatively fast, and that was a good thing. At that point we were exhausted and dirty/sweaty from travel and two hours in the immigration line. We were hopeful that a room would be available early and we could check-in and catch a quick nap before our 3:00 walking tour.

Our Hotel on Dam Square

It wasn’t meant to be. In fact, we heard words one never wants to hear at the end of an overnight flight, “Your room type is oversold.”

Ugh! I couldn’t even think straight to tell the hotel what we wanted to do. We had booked a Junior Suite because it had a separate “living room” and I thought that would be perfect for extra luggage and also a place to sit when one of us (that would be me🙄) couldn’t sleep. We went to lunch in the hotel cafe and took time to discuss our options.

Tomato Soup
Delicious Bread
Bitterballen

Ultimately we decided a room with extra space was more important to us than an upgrade to a room with a terrace, so that’s what we settled on. The hotel added the amenities we would have gotten with the Junior Suite, and really bent over backwards to make up for the overbooking. Despite the mistake, we loved the hotel and thought the hotel staff was terrific.

We found out our room wouldn’t be ready until later so we retrieved our carry-ons and used the public restrooms to change clothes and freshen up before our afternoon walking tour Amsterdam in World War II.

Our guide was great and we walked all over town, but honestly at that point all I really wanted to do was put my pajamas on and relax. I thought the tour was a good prequel for our plans to visit the Resistance and Holocaust Museums on Friday, but ultimately we ended up cutting our time short so we could go back to the hotel and have some down time.

Back at the hotel we finally got in our room🎉 and ventured out one more time to the local grocery store for a dinner of cheese, meat, crackers, and cold vegetables. We saw some other interesting stores along the way!

There are duck stores all over Amsterdam.
A supermarket?
Not something you see in a US mall!

Is There Anything We Didn’t See?

The answer is yes, but we came close!

All good things must come to an end, even trips that were over three years in the making. Getting off the ship was uneventful, and Kirk was there to pick us up for our last day of sightseeing before heading to the airport.

I thought touring the last day was a good way to handle our late flight. We knew there was plenty we hadn’t seen, and doing it this way allowed our luggage to stay with us. The other option would have been a day use room at one of the resorts, but we would rather be out exploring so off to the North Shore it was!

We saw so much the last day I’m not sure I remember all of it. Honestly, it was a bit much even for us. We had been going non-stop for 11 days and we were at the point where we really needed some down time. Nevertheless, we weren’t getting any down time until we got on the plane, so off we went!

Our first stop was at Wailua Coffee for — wait for it — coffee (and chocolate)! We had an interesting tour of the facility and saw how the coffee and cacao gets from plant to product. I got excited when Jim bought four bags of chocolate, then I found out they were for him to take into the office!🙄

Our next stop was at Turtle Bay Resort.

Believe it or not it was time to eat (again) so we went to Lei Lei’s on the golf course at the resort. The food was pretty good, but it was super hot and super expensive (for what it was).

After lunch, we were off to the beach, and we got lucky! Not only did we see our second Monk Seal of the trip, it was also the first day the waves were big enough for surfing!

We started slowly working our way back to Honolulu. One of the stops was at the rock arch at Laie Point. The coast here is beautiful, and is a popular spot for filmmakers. Sounds like most of Hawaii!

I have to admit by this time we were both getting tired. Kirk got us as close as we could get to Marine Corps Base Hawaii so I could snap a couple pictures. Remember my nephew the USNA Plebe who was one of the reasons we started planning this trip? He’s graduating and commissioning in May, and he will be a Marine Pilot!

From the Marine Corps base we stopped at Kailua Beach Park, but we didn’t stay long. One thing I saw posted at the beach entrance was this sign, which I thought was a great idea!

Our next stop was at the Byodo-In Buddhist Temple.

Hoʻomaluhia Botanical Garden

The road to Honolulu (H-3) and the airport was fantastic, especially in Kirk’s great car. The highway is cut through the mountains and a tunnel takes you from one climate to another (wet to dry). This isn’t my picture, but it gives you a great idea of what the road is like.

Before we knew it we were back in Honolulu at the airport.😢 It seemed hard to believe that after all the waiting and planning it was over in a flash!

We packed a lot into our time, and think we saw as much of Hawaii as it’s possible to see in the time we had. We were on the go almost every minute — just how we like it!

We were thankful for the United Club as a place to wait for the flight. It had comfortable seating, TVs showing college football, and most importantly, bathrooms big enough and clean enough to change our clothes and clean up before the long flight.

Fortunately we had an equipment change for the flight home. Ordinarily I would have been annoyed, but not this time! Hallelujah, we were put on an updated plane with pods! I moved us both to window pods which meant we weren’t sitting together but we really didn’t care. We don’t talk much on planes anyway, and our objective on the red-eye flight was to sleep!

We were about an hour late leaving, but had a nice clear view of Honolulu as we ascended.

The flight was uneventful, and after an unmemorable dinner of some kind of Panko crusted chicken I managed to sleep for about 3 hours. When I woke up people were already stirring getting ready for breakfast and our arrival in Houston.

We had a great trip…it was worth the wait! Almost everything went according to plan, and all but one excursion was everything we hoped for and more. It’s always nice when things you chose from reading reviews and looking at pictures end up meeting or exceeding expectations!

That said, I’m not sure we would go back. We saw almost everything we wanted to see, and (just my opinion) there are a lot of other places we want to go before we would return to Hawaii.

Next up? Commissioning Week in Annapolis with my whole family. Planning is underway and I can’t wait!

I’m looking forward to this and so much more! (Photo property of USNA)

Colorful Kauai…By Air and By Sea

Much like Thursday, on Friday we were blessed with (mostly) cooperative weather for some flight-seeing and some cruise-seeing!

We chose a flight with Wings Over Kauai for a Friday morning excursion. https://www.wingsoverkauai.com/ Wings Over Kauai was another tour provider we had been booked with several times in the years it took for us to finally get to go on this cruise. I found them exceptionally easy to work with, understanding about cancellations, and committed to keeping prices reasonable. The only change from our first booking in April of 2020 to our flight on October 7, 2022 was that Wings Over Kauai wasn’t able to provide transportation to and from the airport as they had in the past. That wasn’t a problem, and the added expense was minimal in the whole scheme of things. We took a taxi from the port in the morning, and used Uber to get back to the ship. Easy!

If you’re even thinking about a flight tour, I highly recommend Kauai and this company. The sights are simply breathtaking, and Wings Over Kauai provided an excellent flight. The experience is a little different than a helicopter tour in that the plane does fly a bit higher, but I didn’t feel like I missed out on anything in the plane (I’ve done a helicopter tour before). The tour we chose (Air Van) has the advantage of being considerably less expensive than a helicopter, and everyone gets a window in the Air Van! Wings Over Kauai makes a recording of each flight using a GoPro strapped to the wing strut. The video is narrated and set to music — well worth the extra $50 we paid for a copy.

Ready to go! The white tube you see is the plane’s “air conditioning” system!😂

Words can’t do this excursion justice! I’m not sure pictures can either, but I’m going to let them do the talking. Most of the pictures are mine, but I did include a few screenshots from the video where my pictures had too much reflection from the window.

One of the first things we saw after we took off was our ship.

The colors were absolutely stunning…the bluest blues and the greenest greens. I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything quite like it.

Do you remember Wailua Falls from yesterday? I thought they were much more impressive from the air!

Almost back to the airport…you can see the beach in front of Duke’s on the right and our ship on the left.

We were back at the ship in time for a relaxing lunch followed by plenty of time for me to pack😢 as we cruised to the NaPali coast. When we left the weather was still decent, but we could see rain in the mountains and I began mentally preparing myself for a rainy sail-by of the Napali coast.

Leaving Nawiliwili Harbor, Lihue, Kauai

Sure enough, it got foggy and started misting not long after we left port. On the bright side, that meant packing was faster because I wasn’t distracted by what I was missing on the balcony.

We rounded the northeast point of the island about 5:00, and at first it didn’t look too promising.

There were patches of blue, but mostly low clouds.

We decided to go downstairs and get our picture taken with the rugged coast in the background. We had waited three years for this, and I was determined to get a Christmas card picture for my persistence!

Merry Christmas from the Rouses!🌺

There was more and more sun peeking through so we went back up to our balcony to enjoy the show! The views just got better and better — sun and clouds, interesting shadows, the setting sun glowing orange-yellow on the rocks, and finally an intense, magnificent sunset.

The sun was setting quickly, and just as we turned to head back to Honolulu Mother Nature put on a display.

Good night, Kauai.♥️

Mauka Makai — Kauai Day 1

Sunrise near Kauai

Kauai was the island that most intrigued me when I was planning our trip. I knew the least about it, and the pictures I saw were stunning. Kauai seemed to have it all — cliffs, beaches, mountains, a canyon, and a blowhole!

I booked with Noah’s Ark Kauai—https://www.noahsarkkauai.com/#tours—for our cancelled trip in 2020, and never wavered from my plan to spend our first day in Kauai touring with Noah. We anticipated a fun day going to the mountains (mauka) and towards the sea (makai).

I’m getting ahead of myself. Let me back up a couple days. On Monday afternoon when we got back to the ship from our excursion to Haleakala, I had an urgent e-mail from Noah. He had just tested positive for Covid and had to cancel our tour on Thursday.😢

This was bad news for many reasons! Most importantly, I hated that Noah had gotten sick. I hated that Covid was impacting a trip that had been cancelled and postponed so many times. I hated that my “best laid plans” had to be scrapped. Finally, I was worried because I felt responsible for salvaging not just our plans…we had several others from our Facebook group joining us on the tour.

Thankfully when I got the e-mail I had most of the afternoon to spare before we sailed. I called every recommendation Noah had made in his e-mail, and of course nobody had availability on such short notice. I asked everyone I called for recommendations and then called those people. None of them had availability either. I was starting to panic when I reached out to the ship concierge and got a name and number. Several phone calls back and forth with Casey and we had a reservation to tour Kauai on Thursday. Phew!

Do I think our day was the same experience we would have had with Noah? Unfortunately, the answer is definitely not. Noah is a guide, and we anticipated a day filled with stories, planned stops/activities, a lunch break, and being entertained by Noah on his ukulele. What we got was a driver who was very nice and knowledgeable about the island. Casey took us everywhere we wanted to go, but lacked the polish and professionalism of a true guide. That said, we had a pleasant day and we saw a lot. Casey threw in some nice touches and put his personal stamp on our day.

For the most part I’m going to let the pictures do the talking. We were very lucky, and our weather was picture perfect as you will see.

Driving away from Lihue on our first day in Kauai.

Menehune Fish Pond

Menehune Fish Pond

Menehune Fish Pond

Poipu Bay Golf Course at the Grand Hyatt Kauai

We went searching for turtles in Poipu. They were out there, but it was virtually impossible to get a picture at our first stop.

I finally saw Hawaiian Sea Turtles soaking up the sun at Poipu Beach Park!

After we saw the turtles I thought it would be a good idea to get a picture of me and Jim in our beach attire!😂😂😂

When we left Poipu Beach we went to Spouting Horn, a fabulous blowhole. It was mesmerizing…I could have watched it for hours!

Spouting Horn in Action

On the way to Waimea Canyon we stopped in a small town — I think it was Hanapepe — and walked around for a while. This was where I think it would have been helpful to have a guide to plan a place to stop for lunch, make suggestions, and set some times to keep us on track. We got to see a lot of things, but I didn’t feel like there was any real plan or itinerary for the day.

Waimea Canyon lived up to its reputation! One nice thing Casey did was take us off the beaten path to see the canyon instead of going to the very crowded visitor’s center.

It was a pretty long drive back to Lihue from Waimea Canyon, and we made two more stops before we went back to the ship.

The first was at the Koa Store in Lihue. https://thekoastore.com

They carry a great assortment of handcrafted Koa wood products made by local artisans. We are in the habit of bringing home one nice souvenir from each trip and we look for something that represents the local culture. I rule out things that are mass-produced, stamped “Made in China,” or that I could pick up on Amazon. I know those criteria don’t always guarantee authenticity, but I think they improve my chances!

We chose this hand carved Koa wood bowl as our Hawaii souvenir.

After our stop at the Koa Store we went over to Wailua Falls. I’m only going to share one picture of the falls now, because I got MUCH better pictures on Friday.

Wailua Falls

At Wailua Falls

I loved these trees. I think they are called Albizia trees.

We were tired when we returned to the ship, but our day wasn’t over! We walked to Duke’s for dinner. It was delicious and a nice change of pace.

Duke’s is an easy walk from the ship. This was taken outside Duke’s and you can see the Pride of America in the background.

I can’t remember what we had for dinner, but our drinks were fantastic! I had a Lava Flow…

Lava Flow

…and Jim had a Mai Tai!

Mai Tai

Of course, no meal at Duke’s is complete without a “slice” of Hula Pie! The dessert was delicious and enormous! We were both pretty full by the time we left.

Hula Pie

We had seen about as much of Kauai as we could pack into a single day and were excited about seeing it from two different perspectives on Friday!

They Can Make Beer Out of Anything — Hilo Day 2

Since we overnighted in Hilo, we needed a short excursion to fill the short day. We didn’t want to cut our return too close to the all-aboard time, but we didn’t necessarily want to have to get up and leave the ship in the wee hours either. We chose a farm-to-table tour — my thought was how bad can something that involves food and beverages be? It ended up being a fantastic day!

Most of our morning was spent at OK Farms, located in the hills above Hilo. They grow an incredible variety of fruit, nuts, coffee, and spices on their property, and they also supply fruit to Ola Brew for their craft beers, ciders, and hard seltzers.

We started our tour with freshly brewed coffee, and then drove around the property sampling fruits and spices right off the trees!

OK Farms

Longan Fruit — Also known as Slimy Eyeballs!

The inside of a Longan (Internet picture)

Rambutans (Internet picture)

Nutmeg and Mace

Cloves

We were also treated to some relaxing food and beverage stops with views of Kaiemukama Falls and Rainbow Falls.

No visit to a working farm would be complete without a stop in the gift shop! Since everything we tasted was so good we took the opportunity to stock up on gifts for friends and neighbors and bought some gifts for us too! I’m still hoarding the delicious Macadamia nuts we brought home, and I only allow myself 2 or 3 at a time!😂

Even though our farm visit was over, the tour was not! We enjoyed a delicious lunch at Ola Brew where we were able to sample the beers and hard seltzers made with produce from OK Farms,

I chose hard seltzers.

So good!

If you’re looking for something different to do in Hilo, I highly recommend both OK Farms and Ola Brew. If you don’t have time in Hilo, don’t worry, there’s an Ola Brew in Kona!
https://www.okfarmshawaii.com
https://www.olabrewco.com

We got back to the ship about 1:00 and actually had some time to relax, sit outside for sailaway, and enjoy a few hours of not having to be anyplace! I took advantage of the downtime in the afternoon to go through e-mail, download pictures, and do a load of sink laundry.

Sunset was just before dinner. It was too pretty to miss…they all were!

Dinner was at Teppanyaki and it was fabulous! Our chef/performer Mario was great and really helped make the meal entertaining and memorable.

After dinner I was done! It was all I could do to put one foot in front of the other to walk to our cabin so I could have a close encounter with my bed! We had three more fully packed days ahead and I wanted to be able to take advantage of every minute!

Fire and Ice — Hilo Day 1

Our cruise had an itinerary change. Several months before we sailed we were notified that we wouldn’t be able to go to Kona because of the Ironman World Championship. At first I was upset — I mean, what else could possibly happen with this trip?!? In the end, the change was actually a good thing, because it allowed us to see things we never would have otherwise, like lava at night!

Mauna Kea from the Ship

We arrived in Hilo on a beautiful, picture perfect morning, with hardly a cloud in the sky and a stunning view of Mauna Kea (which many never see).

Arriving in Hilo

We had decided to do a small group excursion called “Land of Frozen Fire” to the Puna District of the Big Island. This tour took us to the area most heavily impacted by the 2018 Kilauea eruption.

The Puna District

The Big Island’s Volcanoes. This map is now inaccurate since Mauna Loa erupted just a couple months after our cruise.

The most fascinating thing about the tour was how arbitrary the lava was. We drove past (but not through) the Leilani Estates neighborhood, made famous in 2018 when fissures erupted and lava flowed through the neighborhood. Here’s a link to a Wiki article about what happened in the neighborhood during the eruption: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leilani_Estates,_Hawaii

Internet picture of Leilani Estates during the eruption.

Driving through lush rainforest with the coast on one side, we suddenly came upon a desolate, craggy landscape with a road built right over the top. This “Frozen Fire” is what was left behind when the lava flow cooled and hardened. It’s uneven, sharp, and almost impossible to walk on (for the most part we didn’t even try!).

Lava Field

Jagged and very sharp!

Lava field with one of the small cones (fissures) in the background.

We also went to the Black Sand Beach at Punalu’u Park. The beach is huge and waves crash dramatically on the nearby lava cliffs.

Punalu’u Park Black Sand Beach

Punalu’u Park Black Sand Beach

Punalu’u Park

Punalu’u Park

One of the most interesting sights at the park is the road that dead ends into a wall of hardened lava. Adjacent to the wall are untouched picnic tables! I wondered why the road hasn’t been rebuilt over the lava, and learned it’s still too hot! I can’t even imagine something that wouldn’t be cool enough to build on after 5 years.

Punalu’u Park

Punalu’u Park

Punalu’u Park

On our way back to Hilo we stopped at the famous Star of the Sea Painted Church. The history of this small church is very interesting, including a move by trailer to save it from a 1990 lava flow! Here’s an article with more information about the church: https://www.civilbeat.org/2020/03/how-the-faithful-took-it-upon-themselves-to-save-this-unique-painted-church/

Star of the Sea

Star of the Sea

Star of the Sea

After we left the church we headed back to Hilo, and stopped for a few minutes at the Grand Naniloa Doubletree Hotel. No surprise that the tour company just happened to have a gift shop there! Luckily the other thing they had was a wonderful view of the ship across the harbor.

Pride of America in Hilo on October 4, 2022

Most of the couples on our tour opted to stay at the resort for the rest of the day, but Jim and I went back to the ship for lunch (at Cagney’s) and to rest a little before Day 1, Part 2!

Yum!

Since we were overnighting in Hilo, the local HOHO company, Keikana Tours, had added an evening tour of Volcanoes National Park for lava viewing. Remember when I said the itinerary change ended up being a good thing? That’s why! We never would have gotten to see lava during the day…just smoke and steam.

We took a small bus with 12 people to the park. Our first stop was at the Thurston Lava Tube, which we walked through and I thought was kind of creepy.

Entrance to Thurston Lava Tube — Photo by National Park Service

Thurston Lava Tube — Photo by National Park Service

Here’s some information about lava tubes: https://www.nps.gov/havo/learn/nature/lava-tubes.htm

The lava viewing was both an amazement and a disappointment. While we didn’t see giant rivers of lava, we saw flows within Kilauea’s Halemaʻumaʻu Crater. Occasionally we saw a flare up from a fissure, and the sky had an orange glow reflecting off the clouds. That was the amazement part. The disappointment part was the selfish people who had gotten there early, set up tripods and chairs along the rope, and refused any and every request to share space, even when asked by the park ranger. The darker it got the better the viewing got, and the more immovable the squatters at the rope became. Thus, most of my pictures were taken by crouching and shooting between peoples’ legs or holding my camera in the air and shooting over peoples’ heads.

Kilauea

Kilauea

Kilauea

Kilauea

Kilauea

Nevertheless, we saw lava and also stopped to experience a steam vent on the way home. The steam vent was interesting…cold on one side, and hot enough to give yourself a facial on the other!

Photo by National Park Service

Dinner wasn’t much. Remember the banana, mango, and guava breads from Maui? They found their way onto the bus and were enjoyed by everybody on the way back to Hilo. We had a quick snack in the buffet when we got back to the ship, but for the most part we were just tired and we knew we needed to get up early to be tourists again!

It was a great day and if I had it to do over I would make the same decisions!