WalkingšŸ‘£ and WiningšŸ·

We woke Friday morning to that which we had avoided almost the entire trip…dark clouds and rain showers.ā˜”ļø Fortunately for us Mother Nature decided we needed to stay with the “Clear and Sunny” program and we ended up having a beautiful day!

 

I had not heard of Korcula before we booked this cruise so I had to do a little bit of extra research to find something to do during our port call. After visiting, my opinion is that Korcula is one of the hidden gems of the Adriatic! We had a wonderful time on a country walk and wine tasting with Rachael from Korcula Explorer. We toured with the same three couples we were with in Montenegro. Since we’ve already established that we all like to eat, drink, and take our time everyone meshed well and enjoyed the day!😁

We took a modified version of the first tour, since our port times didn’t allow for the exact tour on the website:

 

We started out with a short van ride to a country road where our walking tour began. We meandered up and down the gravel paths and paved country roads of Lumbarda. It was so tranquil! The weather cleared as we walked…by the time we reached our first stop the sun was shining.

 

Our first stop was at the Bire Winery where we tasted several wines including being introduced to one of the most prevalent local grapes called Grk. Grk isĀ produced only in Korcula, and we had it at both of the wineries we visited.

 

We then made our way across more of Lumbarda to the Popic winery.


 

In addition to more Grk we were introduced to other local wines — Posip and Plavac Mali. We enjoyed a cold lunch of bread, prosciutto, cheese, and olives on a patio overlooking the vineyards withĀ the idyllic town center of Lumbarda and the sapphire blue sea in the distance.

 

We had a great time on this tour. It was a little bit different thanĀ some of the other things we had done so it was unique as well as being enjoyable. I think we got a much better feel for the island and its people by taking the tour than we would have gotten if we had just walked around Old Town. Rachael was very pleasant and knowledgeable about her adopted home, and we enjoyed both the walk and the winery stops. I would choose Korcula Explorer again if we returned to the Adriatic and had a port call in Korcula.

After walkingšŸ‘£ and winingšŸ· our way through Lumbarda, our van brought us back to Old Town Korcula. We wandered the narrow streets and stairs for a little while, and helped the local economy by purchasing an oil painting.

 

Honestly, by that timeĀ I was tired and my feet were begging to be set free from my Ā (stinky, dirty!) walking shoes! In addition my cold was winning the battle and I knew we still had busy, busy days ahead. For once we were happy to return to the ship and have a little relaxation time. We sat on the balcony through sailaway and watched the ever-changing skies over town and the surrounding mountains.

 

Later we had a very good dinner in the dining room, and I returned to the balcony for one more shot…

 

As soon as it was completely dark I continued my early to bed early to rise tour of the Adriatic coast!😓

The WOW Factor

Our stop in Kotor, Montenegro was AWESOME! All our ports were beautiful, but Montenegro really brought the WOW factor from dawn to sunset! It helped that we had a fantastic tour guide and great people to share our day with. The thought running through my head all day was how lucky we were to be visiting one of the world’s most beautiful places.

 

I booked early in the planning process with Montenegro M Tours, and since I booked so far in advance we got the company’s owner Mladen Lalatovic as our guide. I posted the tour information on my Cruise Critic roll call and we ended up with a total of 24 people in three vehicles taking the same tour.

 

Maybe this is a good time to make a couple comments about sharing tours. It’s a great way to make private tours more affordable, but I do think it’s important to make sure everyone in a vehicle/sharing a tour is on the same page before a tour starts. One of the three vehicles on our Montenegro tour had a very different experience and I think it’s because the people in the van weren’t in agreement about whether they would stop for lunch, how long they should spend at each location, etc. We were very fortunate in that all the people in our vehicle were ā€œstop and smell the rosesā€ travelers and our tour was outstanding.

Almost all our guides on this trip were excellent about listening to us and adapting the day to suit our tastes. That usually resulted in longer tours with plenty of time for local cuisine and off the beaten path sights. If all aren’t in agreement it can cause some conflict, so it’s a good idea to take care of the details ahead of time.

We were lucky enough to dock in Kotor instead of having to tender, so we were off the ship and ready to start our day right at 9:00. From Kotor we made the short scenic drive to Perast on the Bay of Kotor for our first stop of the day. Perast is an old maritime shipbuilding and trading village that is now a tourist destination, with a big draw being the tiny islands of Our Lady of the Rocks (artificial) and St. George (natural). Mladen hurried us along so we could get on a ferry boat to Our Lady of the Rocks before hordes of tourists from big buses descended upon the town.


 

Our Lady of the Rocks (Gospa od Skrpjela) is just breathtaking. According to local legend, the island was formed by seamen and townspeople throwing stones into the sea and sinking old boats to mark the site where an icon of Madonna and Child was found. Ā On July 22, 1452 two brothers found the icon on a rock outcropping. One of the brothers was crippled and was miraculously healed after the icon was discovered. The decision was made to mark the spot where the icon was found by building a shrine to house it. In this way the artificial island was created.

The original shrine was largely destroyed by pirates in 1624, and construction of the current structures was started in 1626. The island and buildings have been expanded over the years, and today remain as an important shrine for sailors.

Over the main altar, aĀ painting depicting the icon isĀ the centerpiece of the church. Painted in the mid 1460s, it has been well preserved over the years. This was one of several churches we saw where important religious icons were protected by decorative metal work, with only the faces exposed to the elements.

Behind the altar there’s a narrow passageway where one can put their handĀ through a hole to touch the rock beneath. It’s said to be the original rock the painting of the Madonna was found on. Ā I took a peek and decided it wasn’t for me. The passageway was extremely narrow and it didn’t look like a good place for a middle-aged, slightly chunky, claustrophobic female! The way I looked at it there were two possible outcomes and neither was positive…I would get stuck because I freaked out in the dark, narrow space, or I would get stuck because I’d been consumingĀ too much bread, prosciutto, and wine! Either way, I decided to take their word for the existence of the hole and the rock!





 

The other island near Perast, St. George (Sveti Đorđe),Ā doesn’t haveĀ quite as interesting a back story as Our Lady of the Rocks.Ā  St. George is partially hidden from view by a wall and towering Cypress trees. Ā The only structure on the island is an old Benedictine monastery, but the island is home to countless graves. As a matter of fact locals refer to it as the island of the dead! There is no touristĀ access to the island, and it has not been inhabited in many decades.

 

The picture below is a stock photo from the internet. It’s the photo I couldn’t get. Why? There was a girl posing right in the middle of the arch the entire time I (and many others) were trying to get a picture. She was posing for her boyfriend and taking numerous selfies. Very frustrating! Sometimes I think there should be signs posted reminding people they’re not the only ones there.

the-church-of-our-lady

 

We had time to walk around Perast after we went to Our Lady of the Rock. It is a charming little seaside town and I would have liked to have more time there, but the rest of Montenegro awaited us!

 

We headed to Budva by way of the Kotor Bay Ferry. You can also get to Budva on land by driving completely around the bay, but it is much faster to take the ferry across.

 

On the way to Budva we stopped to see JAZ Beach. This is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Europe, and is also a major concert site during the summer months.

 

Budva is a study in contrasts. Today, it is quite a large city, but our destination was the old medieval walled city perched on the edge of the sea. The old city was charming, and not crowded at all. We enjoyed walking around a place that isn’t on many big bus tour lists! Budva is also an interesting mix of old and new. Quite a bit of the old city was destroyed by an earthquake in 1979 and has been rebuilt.

This isn’t the greatest picture I’ve ever taken, but I thought the contrast between the old city walls and the jet contrail was interesting:

 

We stopped for lunch in Budva. It was fantastic! We ate at The Juice Bar, which had smoothies and juices, but also some delicious meat and cheese platters, wonderful sandwiches, and of course, wine! Jim split a meat and cheese platter with a friend and I opted for a grilled sandwich. What I got looked a lot like what we would call a panini, but over there it was just a grilled chicken sandwich with pesto!

 

After lunch we began slowly making our way back towards Kotor, with spectacular scenery stops along the way. One interesting stop was overlooking Sveti Stefan (St. Stephen). This former island is now connected to the mainland by an isthmus, and is home to a 5 star resort. In the distant past, the island was a fort, housed a village, four churches, and a monastery, and provided shelter for pirates. In Yugoslavian times the facilities were converted to a resort, and have remained that way through various owners and renovations ever since.

 

The other scenery stop was above the port. I’ll let these pictures speak for themselves. Just breathtaking!

 

There was a souvenir stand at the last scenery stop. This picture speaks for itself too!

 

We arrived back at Kotor Old Town about 3:30, but our day wasn’t over. Mladen spent another hour with us, showing us the highlights of the town and telling us a little more aboutĀ Montenegrin history.

 

About 4:30, after our tour ended, we headed back to the ship but first we had a couple of important purchases to make. We had to find a Christmas ornament to add to our collection, and we had to buy some cough medicine. Fortunately my cold wasn’t getting worse, but it also wasn’t going away so I decided to do something about it.šŸ™„ I love buying cough medicine in Europe. It seems a lot more effective than anything the FDA’s gotten their hands on!

 

Our day was far from over. We took advantage of the beautiful day and our huge balcony and invitedĀ our touring friends to join us for sailaway. What a fantastic experience it was – cruising through the fjords in picture perfect weather enjoying the company of new friends!


 

We ended the day with a late and somewhat light dinner at Canaletto. Once again, I was not the life of the party. My evening went like this…sailaway party, wine, dinner, sleep. My consolation was I was keeping the cold just under control enough soĀ that it wasn’t stopping me during the day. It sure was wiping me out at night though!

I almost cried myself to sleep…the next day was Friday, which meant we were getting close to the end of the cruise. How could something we planned for so long be going by so quickly?😢

Making Lemonade in Dubrovnik!šŸ˜‰

I had been counting down the days to Dubrovnik for months. We had booked what I thought was going to be a fantastic šŸ·wine touršŸ· to Bosnia-Herzegovina. I was excited for two reasons. First of all, one of our winery stops was at a monastery where they had been making wine since the early 1400s. I thought that sounded pretty neat! Secondly, we were going to visit Bosnia, which I also thought was kind of neat. I mean, how many people from Texas can say they’ve visited Bosnia? Not us! We couldn’t say it before the trip, and we still can’t say it! Ā Here’s what happened…

We woke to another beautiful day, and docked (if I remember correctly) a little early.



 

We met up with the other two couples on our tour before we disembarked, and showed up about 10 minutes early to our designated tour meeting place right across the street from the ship. We waited, and we waited, and then we waited some more. I sent Mario (the owner of the tour company) several text messages and emails. I finally heard back from him 30 minutes after we were supposed to leave that there had been a bad accident that morning which resulted in our driver being air lifted to a hospital in Zagreb and also put our guide in the hospital.šŸ¤• Obviously, Bosnia was not to be.😢

I can’t fault Taste Dubrovnik (the company) because accidents happen. Ā However, I was a little uneasyĀ while we were trying to get in touch with Mario and find out what was going on, because we had no communication for about 40 minutes. We were angry while we were waiting and wondering, but once we learned what had happened we understood and moved immediately to plan B. We had a PayPal refund by the time we woke up the followingĀ day.

Luckily for us Dubrovnik is a pretty easy place to find something else to do. There had been plenty of tour operators hanging around watching to see if we got picked up or not! We ended up hiring a tour company (van & driver) for €15/person. They took us to see the local scenery and views. The views are definitely not too shabby!






We have road signs in the U.S. warning us about deer or moose, but this was the first time I’ve seen a warning sign for feral pigs!

😢 Bosnia:


 

We followed the scenic drive by spending the rest of the day in Dubrovnik Old Town.


 

Once we got to Old Town we walked around a bit, then went to a restaurant called Konoba Jezuite for lunch at the recommendation of the tour company. Truthfully, the walking around part of that last sentence was because we couldn’t find the place!

 

The restaurant was tucked away out of the major traffic areas and we wondered if perhaps we’d been sent on a wild goose chase, but our mealĀ was fantastic. Konoba JezuiteĀ actually ended up being a great choice because we had a wonderful table outside without the kind of crowds we saw at so many other locations.


Jim’s Dumpling Stew:

 

Once we finished lunch we decided to walk the walls of the old city. The Croatians have done an excellent job of creating a steady stream of income in Dubrovnik. The tariff to climb hundreds of stairs and walk the walls of Old Town is about $22.50. Per person!😳

 

One thing that makes the walled cities in the Adriatic different than any of the historical places I’ve visitedĀ before is that they’re not ruins, relics, or museums. They’re actual inhabited town centers that happen to have ancient walls to protect them from invaders. People live, work, and play in locations that have been inhabitedĀ hundreds or even thousands of years longerĀ than the United States.

Hmm…I’m not sure if this is an ancient problem or a modern problem!😳




 

Unfortunately, the walled city of Dubrovnik was heavily shelled during the War for Croatian Independence in 1991-1992. The Montenegrins and the Serbians set up shop on the hill overlooking Dubrovnik and bombed the walled city relentlesslyĀ for seven months. Ā Here’s a map I found on Wiki that shows how devastating the war was to Old Town:

 

In the pictures you will notice two different types of roof. The solid red roofs are fairly new because those structures were damaged or destroyed in the war and have been rebuilt. The roofs that survived have more signs of age and variation in color. You’ll also notice some buildings that are nothing but ruins. The ruins stand next to surviving buildings that are occupied and house shops, restaurants, and families.






 

We went back to the ship around 6:30, and had dinner in the dining room with one of the couples we spent the day with. Once again after dinner I went straight to bed. I was definitely not the life of the party, but with 10 days to go I didn’t want my cold to decide to linger or turn into anything worse! I was asleep long before we left port headed for Kotor, Montenegro!😓

It’s All Greek to Me!

Tuesday we visited the island of Corfu, Greece. We didn’t really have any expectations for the day because the island didn’t seem to ā€œfitā€ with the other ports. It almost seemed like an opportunity for a beach day thrown in with the historical ports, but we couldn’t have been more wrong. We were blown away! Our driver, Spiros ā€œ2ā€ from Corfu Taxi Tours was fantastic, and everything about the day was memorable.

There were four of us in a vehicle for our “Corfu Taxi” tour, and thankfully we all have a similar travel style…learn about the culture, stop and smell the roses, get off the beaten (tourist) path, eat local cuisine – basically see and do the things that you can’t on a crowded ship’s tour because of numbers and because they’re catering to the masses. Spiros was one of the many guides we had on this trip who ā€œgotā€ us, and he very effectively tailored the day to make it perfect. We started with a drive up into the mountains and stopped a couple times to admire the gorgeous scenery. Even though the day was hazy, we had abundant warm sunshine and stunning views.


We then made our way along the narrow, winding roads to the tiny town of Makrades where Spiros dropped us off at the beginning of town and let us make our way through the village at our own pace. 


We saw the villagers getting ready for their day, and marveled at their easy, comfortable lifestyle. There is a small store and cafĆ©, but for fresh food the locals rely on the daily arrivals of the fish truck and bread truck. Talk about fresh…the fish is caught in the early morning hours, then brought directly to the customers! I think the local cats were also fans of the fish truck!









We stopped to see Angelokastle (Castle of the Angel), but at Spiros’ recommendation we didn’t make the climb! The acropolis (walled city/fortress) is perched atop a cliff at the highest point of the island. The earliest records of inhabitants at the location have been traced back to the 5th-7th centuries AD, and the complex played an important role in protecting residents during sieges as well as being a cultural and market center for many centuries. Today the renovated castle is open to the public as an important Greek cultural site.




Our next stop was a shopping stop, but not one we minded – it was at an Olive Wood shop in the tiny village of Krini. This was more than just a shop…it was a place where they craft and carve the gorgeous pieces. We all bought some small items, but I really wanted to buy some bowls/baskets (as if I don’t have enough). Alas, I was stopped by the limitations of our suitcases and Lufthansa’s weight restrictions so I passed. That doesn’t mean I won’t have a larger piece soon though…the internet is a wonderful thing!



Spiros asked if we liked bread and wine…obviously he was still getting acquainted!šŸ˜‰ He made a quick stop at a bakery (see the sign…I’m not even going to attempt to type it!) and then we were off to George’s Cellar for a wonderful, relaxing lunch of bread, olive oil, tomatoes, feta, and olives. 

 


I couldn’t get over how fresh and delicious everything was, including the wine! It’s all grown locally, and George’s presses their own olive oil and makes the wine on site. Jim and I were intrigued enough by the wine to buy a bottle, and we were shocked at the cost. It set us back €3.50!😮 The best part of it was we avoided the $18 corkage fee on the ship because the wine looked more like a bottle of balsamic vinegar than wine. It was in a clear bottle with no label, and it had a plastic stopper instead of a cork. The security guy at the ship took a long look when we sent Jim’s bag through the scanner, but he didn’t ask so we didn’t tell! You can see bottles of red wine on the shelf in the next picture. The big barrels? Olive oil…gallons and gallons of liquid gold!



Here’s a funny side story about the wine — when they asked us if we wanted wine with lunch they also asked us if we preferred red wine or white wine. Of course my first question was what kind of red wine. The answer I got was, “It’s made from red grapes.” When I asked what kind of red grapes the waitress shrugged and said, “Just red grapes.” Come to find out, George’s makes four kinds of wine. You can get dry red, sweet red, dry white, or sweet white. I still have no idea what kind of grape was used to make the wine, but that’s not important because it was good.šŸ·šŸ˜šŸ·

After lunch, wine, and a dessert of candied kumquats (also grown and made on site) we visited Paleokastritsa Monastery, a gorgeous, tranquil spot overlooking the Mediterranean. In addition to the monk’s cells, numerous cats, and an abundance of flowers, the monastery has a working olive oil press and a small museum with artifacts dating back to the Byzantine Empire.








A leisurely drive towards the port brought us back to Old Town Corfu, where Spiros dropped us off to explore. It was interesting, vibrant, and eclectic — we found everything from t-shirt souvenir shops to produce stands to expensive art all existing in the same cramped spaces. We enjoyed our short stroll around the town, but we also got turned around and had a hard time finding our way out of the maze! Google Maps wasn’t much help, in part because all the streets were narrow, winding, and had names we couldn’t pronounce, let alone type! We finally asked a shopkeeper where we should go, and sure enough the correct way out was counter-intuitive to what we were thinking! It’s a good thing we finally put the tech toys away and went old school!





Spiros dropped us off at port around 3:00, a good two hours longer than we had booked and paid for. What a fantastic day! We had a preconceived idea about this port, and we were unexpectedly delighted with both Corfu and our tour. We arrived thinking it was going to be a wasted day, and we left thinking Corfu needs to go on our list of ā€œmust returnā€ places!


Dinner was in the Pinnacle Grill with our touring friends. It probably wasn’t our best meal of the trip…our waitress was obviously new to the Pinnacle and service was slow. Still, we had plenty to eat in a quiet, relaxing environment with good company so no complaints.

I was exhausted after dinner and could tell I was coming down with a cold, so I went straight to bed while Jim went exploring the night life. I needed my beauty sleep because we had a big day coming up with a tour to Bosnia, or did we? My next post will be about making lemonade when you’re given lemons! 

Yes, the water really is THAT blue!

Please accept my apologies…I totally lost my way when it came to keeping up with this blog. This was a fantastic and action packed trip…most nights I was so exhausted that I could barely get pictures off my camera before I fell asleep, only to do it all again the next day. Unfortunately, even though I had internet access, the process of resizing the pictures to post was so tedious and slow on the ship I eventually gave up. The good news is now that I’m home I have no such issues, and I get to relive most of the trip by getting caught up on my posts!

We left Valletta at dawn on Sunday, and spent a wonderful (but not very comfortable!) day on the beautiful Maltese island of Gozo.

Here are some “crack of dawn” (literally) pictures of leaving Valletta and arriving in Mgarr, Gozo…


We took a Jeep tour of the island with Barbarossa Tours. There were four or five of us in a pretty small Jeep all day, which is why I said the day was a bit uncomfortable. By the time we got back to the ship we were wind blown, sunburned, and had aching rear ends from the bouncing!😳
 
I finally tied a scarf around my head because I got tired of eating my hair!

Despite the discomfort, the island is stunning, and the contrast between the arid landscape, the limestone structures, and the brilliant blue of the Mediterranean was breathtaking!





One of our morning stops was at the Ggantija Temples. The structures date back to 3,600 and 3,200 BC. In addition to the temples and surrounding walls, there is a museum containing artifacts from the excavation of the site.





In addition to lots of scenery and the visit to the temples, we spent quite a bit of time at the Citadel. The current structures date back to Medieval times, but there has been a fortification on the site since 1500 BC.





What a view!

The cathedral within the city walls is still in use, and there was a wedding taking place during our visit. I didn’t see the bride and groom, but I loved their get-away car. It brought back memories of learning to drive (and parallel park!) in my mom’s 1976 Bonneville!

We had a nice, relaxing lunch, and would have happily spent more time exploring the narrow streets and enjoying the day, but our driver was a bit of a task-master. Her job was to make sure we saw the whole island, and by golly that’s what she did! It was somewhat comical at times, and we felt like we were negotiating tour time vs. relaxation! Our driver originally suggested we could tour the Citadel and eat in just 45 minutes.šŸ™„ We all vetoed that idea, then she offered us an hour, but we said no to that also. We finally got her to agree to something that we thought was reasonable and would still allow her to check all the boxes on her list!


After lunch we made a stop where the Azure Window used to be, but it was very crowded and commercialized even though the main attraction does not exist any longer. 



More scenery and Ta’ Pinu Basilica:





One of the highlights for me was seeing the salt pans on the remote north side of the island. We drove along the coast and learned about the process of extracting salt from the sea using giant pans or flats that line the coast between the sea and the coastal road. The pans are 350 years old, and the tradition of making sea salt has been passed down in families for generations. Since the salt is gathered during the summer we did not get to see the process, but there is plenty of information available on the Internet.

 
By the time we returned to the port we were ready to go “home” and relax!


Sunday night was quite profitable. We had a nice dinner in Canaletto, the Italian specialty restaurant on the ship. Jim was tired and went to bed right after dinner, and I decided to check out the casino. I returned to the room within 45 minutes, $730 richer than I entered!šŸ˜‚

Monday was a much needed sea day, and we accomplished absolutely nothing, unless you consider sitting on the balcony an accomplishment.😁 

Dinner was a ā€œGalaā€ night with friends in the dining room, and we went to the show after. It was OK…better than some I’ve seen, but this cruise was 99% about the ports and for us the ship/cruise was just a means of getting us there!

Once we got to Greece on Tuesday we had eleven busy days before we could sit and relax…and that was on the plane home!

What’s Behind Door Number 1?

I admit to being something of a door and window junkie. I especially love doors. With that in mind, Valletta, Malta was a dream. I just thought I should warn you, because you’re going to see a few!ā˜ŗļø 


We arrived in Valletta on Saturday morning for an overnight stay. We didn’t have anything planned for the morning, so I spent some much needed quality time with my friends Balcony and Coffee, and later we walked around the waterfront area for a while. 

Back to the doors…to find the doors requires a good local guide, and we loved our late afternoon walking photography tour with Dragana Rankovic of Photograph Malta. There were only four of us (2 couples), so the tour was very much tailored to our needs and interests. Dragana showed us highlights and hidden gems of Valletta, and helped with the technical aspects of photography too.  We walked around Valletta exploring many streets we never would have found on our own. This was another ā€œexerciseā€ tour…Valletta is very hilly! Something that surprised me was the number of homes that are unoccupied and have been empty for many years. Some of them were prime real estate, and I would have expected them to be snatched up and renovated. 















Later we took the ferry across to the neighborhoods/towns of Birgu, Bormla, and Fgura. We walked the narrow streets and enjoyed a rest and refreshment break at a local cafĆ©. 















After our tour, Dragana helped us get a reservation outside at Trabuxa, an excellent Italian restaurant in the old city. It was a fantastic day and evening!




Make Me an Offer I Can’t Refuse!

We woke Friday to hazy foggy skies after 10 hours of much needed sleep 😓! Oh well, at least it wasn’t raining and the fog was outside and no longer in my head! The captain did a ā€œdrive-byā€ of Stromboli, but the volcano was all but obscured in the haze.


At 10:00 we went to the well attended Cruise Critic Meet and Greet. It gave us an opportunity to put names to faces and meet most of the people we’ll be touring with in the ports as well as make definite plans.

We took a ā€œGodfather and Hidden Villagesā€ tour with Sicily Life and thought it was fantastic. My favorite part of the day was the time we spent in Savoca, a tiny village on a cliff where major scenes from The Godfather were filmed. We got our exercise in this town…there’s only one way to get to the top, and that’s by foot power!













Our next stop was Taormina – a much larger town than Savoca and filled with tourists. 

 
We wandered for a while, then set up shop right on the square for people watching, Arancini, and Cannolis! 







Finally, we visited Castelmola, several hundred feet above Taormina overlooking Mount Etna. The village was charming, but unfortunately Etna was shrouded by clouds so seeing the mountain wasn’t happening for us.



Back at the ship, we spent the rest of our evening on our balcony with some red wine.šŸ· The captain had promised a drive-by of Mount Etna to see the lava flow. He tried, but the clouds just weren’t cooperating so off we went towards Malta.

Castles and Cruising

I didn’t sleep as well Wednesday night as I had the night before, but I think that probably had something to do with the dryer churning away and knowing we had to get packed up and ready to leave by 10:00. As soon as I got up I removed more things from the dryer and set it to run again, but in the end we ended up packing a couple damp things.šŸ™„

Our weather luck was no more, and it was raining off and on when we set out at 10:00 with our fantastic guide Rossella from Rome Cabs. We originally booked just a transfer, but then I read about some other tour options and added those to the transfer. Since we were in Italy I wasn’t in as much of a hurry to get to the ship as I would be in Galveston!šŸ˜† Unfortunately the rain meant that traffic was outrageous and we had to alter our route somewhat, but we really had a nice time. The best part was every time we got ready to get out of the car the rain stopped!

Our first stop was in the tiny medieval town of Ceri. The castle was built in the 12th century, and sits atop a cliff. There is a single steep, winding road leading up/down, and a traffic light at either end controls entry and exit. 





Today, the town is home to 7 families. There is a church, a cafƩ, 2 restaurants, and a tobacco shop (the town version of a convenience store). What a charming place!








If you look carefully in the next picture you can see what looks like a doorway in the hillside. That’s actually the entrance to an Etruscan Necropolis, so the area has been inhabited for thousands of years.



From Ceri we drove to the coast. I was fascinated by the Umbrella Pines, which Rossella told us are found only in Italy.



Our next stop was Santa Severa castle on the coast, which was built in the 15th century. The original plan had been to go to Lake Bracchiano and castle which are from the same period, but between the weather and traffic near Rome, we opted to head to the coast. It was interesting to walk around the village…the castle is RIGHT on the water, so it was very different than anything I’ve seen before.










We got to Civitavecchia about 1:15…check-in was a breeze, but getting onto the ship was an adventure in the sideways rain.šŸŒ§šŸ’¦šŸŒ§ We used our umbrellas as shields!ā˜”ļø Our refurbished suite is beautiful, but our main interest is in the huge balcony! I’ll post more on the ship itself later when I have time to take some pictures. We ended our first of 12 cruise nights sharing dinner with new friends, and fell into a deep sleep soon after dinner. So far everything has gone according to plan, and we hope our luck continues!



Ancient Technology, Old Neighborhoods, and Traditional Food

If Tuesday was all about seeing the sights everyone must see, Wednesday was about going to see some sites that a lot of people overlook. We took a morning Hidden Gems tour with Walks of Italy. Our day started at the Theatre of Marcellus (Teatro Marcelo) which predates the Colosseum. 



From there, we crossed over to Tiber Island to the Basilica of St. Bartholomew, then back across the river to the Jewish Ghetto. Our guide pointed out numerous small bronze plaques embedded in the sidewalks in front of the homes. They are a sobering reminder of what happened to the inhabitants during a terrible time in history.





After the Jewish Ghetto we boarded our small bus part for the driving part of our tour.  Our first stop was Circus Maximus, the Roman chariot racing and entertainment area located near the Forum and the Colosseum. 

Next, we drove to the remains of the Baths of Caracalla. The massive site was built between 212 and 217 AD, and once housed cold, warm, and hot baths that could hold over 1,500 people at one time.  The complex also housed a library. Today it is used for outdoor concerts.



The next stop on our tour was The Appian Way.  We walked on a stretch of excavated stones from ancient times (recreated), and learned how to use a Roman drinking fountain.  





Our last stop outside the city was at the Park of the Aqueducts where we saw the Aqua Claudia…a true engineering marvel that stretched 56 km above and below ground, and provided water to 14 districts of Rome every day.  Without the aqueducts, Ancient Rome wouldn’t have existed.  Aqua Claudia was one of 11 aqueducts that provided water to Ancient Rome. Parts of the aqueducts are still in use today, including one that feeds the Trevi Fountain.





Before we returned to our starting point we went to Janiculum Hill for the noon cannon shot and a view of the city. Unfortunately it was kind of hazy so the views were not spectacular, but it was an interesting experience. After the tour we headed back to Campo de’ Fiori for lunch where we made another critical food mistake, but very a very different one than the day before. 

 
We knew our restaurant choice was fine, because friends recommended it. We weren’t in a tourist area like the streets around the Vatican and the prices were reasonable. Our calzones were delicious, so what was the problem? One between the two of us would have been plenty! Our calzones were delicious, but they were the size of a small platter! 


After lunch we walked around the market a bit, they we went back to the apartment to shower and do a quick load of laundry. The only problem was the words quick, laundry, and Rome should never be used in the same sentence. We left the washer running and went out for our evening tour. I believe the washer ran about 3 hours for a light load.





We did an evening food tour in Trastevere with Eating Italy. We loved this, and think food tours are a great way to get a feel for an area or neighborhood while sampling delicious food. We visited 7 restaurants and shops, and I thought some of the more memorable tastes were the Buffalata and tomatoes, the fried Jerusalem artichoke, the pastas, and the Gelato, although everything we had was good.









We got home about 9:30 and transferred the laundry to the dryer. At 1:00 a.m. I pulled out everything that was approaching dry and reset the dryer, which unfortunately was in the closet in our bedroom! The dryer finally turned off around 1:45 and I fell asleep, but it was a lengthy process getting our small load of laundry to dry…if I had to guess, I would say the washing and drying process took about 8 hours!😳

Up next – medieval castles and a newly renovated ship!

Who Needs a Gym?

Not the Rouses in Rome, that’s for sure! We had an action packed two days, and we saw as much as we could in the short time we had. 

Tuesday was dedicated to two Italian icons, the Vatican and the Colosseum. I tried not to schedule our tours that way, but it was the only way to fit everything in so we went ahead with it. In hindsight, it wasn’t too bad and it was a good way for us to keep going and ignore the jet lag on an absolutely gorgeous day.


We started with an early admission tour of the Vatican with a 7:15 meeting time. In my opinion, this is the only sane way to see the Sistine Chapel and tour the museum, unless of course you enjoy spending your time in a throng of shuffling tourists waving selfie sticks. Jim and I were both stunned at the size of Vatican City – it’s huge! In particular, St. Peter’s Basilica was much bigger than we thought it was. We’ve only seen it on TV, and I’m not sure I’ve ever seen the inside, but pictures don’t really do it justice. St. Peter’s and St. Peter’s Square are massive and magnificent. On the other hand, the Sistine Chapel is much smaller than I envisioned.









It was wonderful to have a guide who could tell us about the history of the structures and the meaning behind all the paintings and artwork. To really do the Vatican Museums justice would require days, not hours. Touring does give you a sense of how much power and money the pope and the Catholic Church had at one time.

After we left the Vatican, we made the only mistake of the trip so far. We didn’t think we had enough time to go elsewhere for lunch and be at the Colosseum at 1:00, so we did something we’d been warned not to do. We ate lunch in one of the tourist restaurants near St. Peter’s Square. My thought was that an Italian restaurant couldn’t ruin pizza, but I was sorely mistaken. We spent 55 Euros for personal pizzas, one salad, and two bottles of water!šŸ˜ Not only was it extremely overpriced (we found food and wine in Rome to be very reasonable), it was just awful. Have you ever had mall pizza? I would have traded my lunch for mall food in a heartbeat! Nevertheless, it did serve the purpose of saving some time, but next time we will know better.

We had an afternoon tour of the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forum with the same guide we had in the morning. It was fantastic! Andrea really knows his stuff, and was able to explain not only how the Colosseum was built, but how it worked and what it was used for. 


I thought the Colosseum was very interesting, because I saw so many similarities to modern stadiums. It was a very thorough and engaging tour, although I did wonder why anybody would build such a nice stadium without escalators!šŸ˜‰ Our tour included the dungeons and the third tier. The stairs were steep…much steeper than stairs in a modern house.


 




From the Colosseum, we walked over to Palatine Hill and then through the Forum before our tour ended. It was time for a taxi back to the apartment! We had walked six miles which isn’t too far, but according to Jim’s tracker we had climbed the equivalent of 23 stories! At that point my legs were done. It’s a very different kind of exercise than a class at the gym, especially since the stairs were steep and uneven…there were times I was literally pulling myself up them!







We had a nice dinner with new friends – it sort of made up for lunch!šŸ™‚ Rome is a city filled with tiny restaurants and delicious food and wine. We were both stunned at how inexpensive really good wine is. We chose a bottle of Montepulciano for 20 Euros, and it was one of the more expensive ones on the list. I checked it on my wine app, and it retails for about $19 in the US. There was only a very slight mark-up! 


We could barely keep our eyes open at the end of dinner. We were both asleep well before 10:00! It had been a long, wonderful day!

My original plan was to update this all the way through Wednesday in one post. That was before I wrote all of Tuesday and Wednesday and hit the wrong button.😢 My writing went to that big cyber-cemetery where all failed tech attempts live, never to be seen again. Since it’s now Friday night and we’re on the ship, I think I’ll take it one day at a time until I get caught up. I will also add the pictures as I can. Enjoy!